
New Openings: Roth Bar & Grill, Hauser & Wirth Somerset
2014-08-01 14:45:28 未知
What’s new? The Roth Bar & Grill, the humming hub of the Hauser & Wirth Somerset gallery and arts centre, which as Telegraph Luxury reported, has just opened to great fanfare at Durslade Farm (a working, free-range farm) on the edge of Bruton.
Behind the scenes: The well-connected Catherine Butler is the powerhouse running the show, she’s already ploughed a furrow for Bruton with At The Chapel, a restaurant and bakery (the very definition of rustic chic) with rooms that has become the beating heart of this unassuming Somerset town for both the well-heeled, linen-dressed locals and the down-from-London brigade (Mariella Frostrup, Bill Amberg, Phoebe Philo etc.) since it opened in 2008. Butler is a well-seasoned pro, hailing from Notting Hill where she established the Café Med chain.
The concept: It’s all part of the bigger Hauser & Wirth picture. In fact the bar itself is a site-specific art installation – a higgledy piggledy 3-D collage of salvaged parts of farm machinery, junk and found objects, including drums masquerading as bar stools, created by the hard-living artist son and grandson (Björn and Oddur) of the late artist Dieter Roth, who were residents for six months while they made merry with a chainsaw assembling the bar. The bar has already witnessed an impromptu jamming session (muso, not Women’s Institute) with Danny Goffey, husband of Pearl Lowe, and Dominic Greensmith of local Glastonbury band Reef.
The former cow shed was transformed into the 70-cover restaurant by the Parisian-based, Argentinian-born architect Luis Laplace with the original stone walls livened up by some vintage finds, neon signage by the late Jason Rhoades strung from the trusses and large-scale photography. There’s a lovely courtyard terrace that’s idyllic on a summer day, so idyllic in fact that four out of five of the assembled press elected to stay on and take a later train… it’s that kind of place.
What’s cooking?Organic, farm-to-table food British food with the compact menu detailing the provenance of the produce which head chef James Jesty has locally sourced as much as possible from Durslade itself (home-cured meats, chutneys etc.) and the surrounding area. Highlights include cheese from Laverstoke Park, chicken from Woolley Park and fish sourced from the Dorset coast.
Signature dishes: The sharing platters, notably the spit-roasted chicken or the whole bream with baby gem and rosemary roasted new potatoes – the peppered crust giving way to meaty white flakes of fish. You could just eat the veg and cheese here and be sated: the roughly torn, fat dollops of mozzarella were a creamy marvel teamed with crisply-cut chunks of home-pickled beetroot. Heritage orange and yellow toms, plus dark and lime green long beans cooked in garlic brought a rainbow of colours and flavours to the table. It's early days, so there was a limited choice of dessert – no reason for complaint though, the lemon posset had the incredible consistency of clotted cream with sharp, sunny tang of lemon.
They do a mean line in smoothies – go for Rooty beetroot, carrot, apple and ginger. But watch out, the enthusiastic bar manager will have you sampling the super pure Reyka vodka and vodka espresso, rather than an espresso, before you can blink. Best chuck the car keys and book a night at The Chapel for the full Bruton-Butler experience.
Who to take: Contemporary art lovers, urbanites seeking a rural respite, and even the kids, granny and the dog – it has something for all.
(责任编辑:张天宇)
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