Haute Couture: China Calling
2009-05-14 09:08:10 未知
Is the gilt-edged haute couture finding its way into the fashion-conscious people of China? Going by the statistics of Beijing Garments Association, some 200 studios which claim to be haute couture studios have come up in Beijing in the last decade, it will not be incorrect to say that this country is the new face of this rarified sect of “custom-designers”. China, with its veritable treasure of handcraft techniques like embroidering, dyeing, brocading and kesi, is in fact perfectly poised to be the new haute couture centre in this part of Asia.
The neo-rich in the vastly urbanizing landscape of China are eagerly lapping up the custom-made clothes, in an expression of boredom with the branded wear.
In the recent years, as the Chinese economy has spiraled upwards, so have the living standards of the people. The young people are no longer satisfied with the ready-to-wear, mass produced, limited styles, sans the individualistic element, kind of clothes. Exclusive designs, draped in unique style, are what they seek from the fashion industry.
Aiming at this rising market in China, famous foreign brands, such as Chanel and Armani, have set up their own shops in metropolis, such as Shanghai and Hong Kong and introduced their designs to Chinese consumers. At the same time, many local designers have also found their way in this market.According to Bian Xiangyang, a professor in the Fashion School of Donghua University, the young are more adventurous, bold and clear about what they want from life.
Since clothes are so important in making a style statement, youth in China are actively courting the haute couture culture.
According to one industry estimate, the world of super-rich is currently found in countries like the Middle East and China, both less affected by recession, unlike other nations. It is this class of the population that is splurging on haute couture, recession notwithstanding.Italian designers have been working hard to market themselves through extravagant events in China. Recently, Beijing played host to a spate of parties and fashion shows thrown by some of Italy’s biggest luxury names.
However, Guo Pei, China’s home-grown couture specialist believes the haute couture market here would not be broader in the future, as the consumers were limited. “What we can actually do is further improve the techniques and skills of haute couture,” said Guo.
From the conference of Botao Haute Couture in 2002, NE?TIGER’s high-class dress series in 2003, to the conference of Qi Gang’s ‘butterfly’ collection in 2007 and Guo Pei’s 2008 series, the couture is giving high-street fashion a close competition.
Guo Pei, now famous as the female designer who designed 2008 Olympic costumes and dresses for the most grand evening party of China—the Spring Festival Gala Evening, has won acclaim for her fairy-like, self-indulgent costumes, very popular among women stars like Zhang Ziyi, Yang Lan and Dong Qing.
“My Rose Studio represents the high level of haute couture in China. I always comply with the general international standards of haute couture and have won the warrant of the international brands, such as Valentino, Ungaro, Carnet, and Elegance,” Guo said.
All creations in Guo’s studio are made entirely by hand, costing hundreds or tens of thousands of hours. Her works feature many factors of Chinese culture. Patterns of blue-and-white porcelain not only make out a fairy dress but also an artwork of a delicate vase. Embroidering is also Guo’s special skill.
In her opinion, a good designer must be competent in using a needle.Some designers are of the view that at the time when many Chinese traditional techniques are close to fading out, the development of haute couture will benefit the inheritance of Chinese handcrafts.
Just as Chen Juanhong, a famous Chinese model and designer said, “Although we don’t have a long history of haute couture, we have the culture of more than 5,000 years. How to take advantage of our culture is the key step in making our haute couture unique.”
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