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A Muse, Exported: Diane von Furstenberg on Using Warhol and the Wrap Dress to Conquer China

2011-04-14 10:21:31 未知

 

Francesco Clemente's "Diane," 1999

Diane von Furstenberg, the 64-year-old designer of the evergreen "boardroom to boudoir" wrap dress has played muse to her era's most famous artists, inspiring everyone from Andy Warhol to Julian Opie to Chuck Close to churn out likenesses of her high-cheekboned countenance. Now, von Furstenberg is taking China by storm, introducing herself to its vast population (not to mention luxury goods market) with quite the calling card — a show at Pace Beijing in the city's 798 Arts District titled "Journey of a Dress."

"People go to see art in China, not unlike New York," Pace Gallery founder Arne Glimcher told ARTINFO when asked about the show. "They are interested in fashion and they're interested in the style, whether it be in art, in fashion, or in literature. Contemporary style is a very big entity in China."

On view through May 14, "Journey of a Dress" — a smaller iteration of which has appeared in Russia and Brazil — features four decades worth of the designer's garments and ephemera alongside her collection of portraits, the newest additions to which are commissioned works by Chinese artists Yi Zhou, Li Songsong, Hai Bo, and Zhang Huan. ARTINFO spoke to von Furstenberg before the show opened about her collection and why she decided to acquire Warhol portraits she never really liked.

How did "Journey of a Dress" come about? Did you know Arne Glimcher prior to planning the show with Pace?

I've known Arne Glimcher for a very long time. I did a version of this show in Moscow and in Sao Paolo and then when we started to talk about it for Beijing we decided that we would incorporate some Chinese artists. So it's much more complete and a much nicer show than the other ones. And it's really quite interesting because it's basically the journey of a dress, a dress that has survived for over 40 years. Therefore it's a dress that has dressed women for four decades — it has lived through the decades. And so that's the dress. Then of course when you walk into the exhibition on one side it's all fashion. You have four vignettes with clothes and it's the four themes that are very symbolic of my brand: American dream, Studio 54, femme fatale, and working girl. And then you have the sketches and you have the fabric and all the illustrations. And then you go to the end of the room and you turn around and you look at the room the other way and it's only art. You have the Warhols of the 70s and the Warhols of the 80s and Francesco Clemente and Avedon and Helmut Newton and Peter Lindgergh and Julian Opie and Chuck Close and then the Chinese contemporary artists.

The subject of the show is really you — your accomplishments as both a muse and a designer. Is there a precedent for a show like this?

For a person who is alive? There are plenty of them for a person who is dead. But I have been photographed and painted by so many of my contemporaries — because we're friends as well as contemporaries. Like with Julian Opie, I just posed with him two weeks ago in London and it's really of the dress. Of course I have no face, because the Julian Opie doesn't really have a face, so it's the dress — the same dress I wore when I was 23 and the same dress that was worn by Mrs. Obama for her Christmas card last Christmas. That's pretty amazing, you see that it's really the dress that is a symbol of something that has survived all this time.

Did you know the Chinese artists who made the new portraits before you commissioned them?

I had certainly heard about Zhang Huan and had seen some of his work. But I met them all last year. I have become very good friends with all of them and as a matter of fact two days prior to the exhibition I am giving a Red Ball in Shanghai in Zhang Huan's studio.

Did the Chinese artists know about you beforehand? Were they acquainted with your work?

I don't know if they did, but they sure do now!

What was your role in actually curating and designing the show? Bill Katz, who did Pace's 25th Street gallery space, was involved wasn't he?

Bill Katz has definitely been very involved. André Leon Talley also, in terms of the fashion. And, clearly, I had something to say about the arrangement.

Are any of the works on view from your personal collection?

All of them.

Are you going to acquire the Chinese artworks?

Yes! Yes!

Tell me about yourself as a collector, then — your collecting style.

Well, I kind of like to think I'm not a collector because there's something extensive about a collector. But I do collect friends and all these artists are my friends and that is what is always special — when a collection is personal, because it's a reflection of your time and everything that you have lived. For example, Francesco Clemente always wanted to paint me and we kept on making appointments and then I would cancel, or he would cancel, or whatever. Then the day I knew I was becoming a grandmother and my daughter-in-law was being induced for labor I said, "Francesco, let's do it that way. I want you to paint me the day I become a grandmother." Or with Warhol, the first portrait taken of me was at one in the morning, in my apartment, in my kitchen. It's clearly a personal show, but it's because of my life throughout four decades that it's so interesting when you look at it, because whether it is the clothes, or whether it is the paintings, or whether it is the photographs or the illustrations, or the graphics of the magazines, you can really define the different decades. China today is basically the same as we are here, but in the last four decades it was not, and therefore that is why I think it is interesting to them.

Do you think the references like Studio 54 resonate in China? Or are you introducing a certain Western cultural history?

Well, to young people, I mean, yes. Warhol is always what they want to know about.

Tell me more about the Warhols.

Oh the first one, the one he did in the 70s is my favorite. That one was one night in my apartment and he said, "Oh, let me take a Polaroid for a portrait." But he needed a white wall and I didn't have any white walls — there was only a white wall in the kitchen and because the wall was so small, I put my arm above my head. The second Warhol was I think in 1982 or 83 or something like that and he was preparing a show called "Beauty" and he called me in and made me put on white chalk, like the Kabuki white chalk — it was another style of his paintings. And he gave me one and I didn't particularly like it so I didn't get any more. And then, of course, when he died I bought all of them.

So the Museum of Contemporary Art in Shanghai just closed an exhibition called "Culture Chanel." It's interesting that there are these surveys surrounding you and Chanel, these iconic figures in luxury goods and fashion design. Do you think there's a growing interest in this kind of thing in China?

Yes, everyone is interested in it China, clearly. I mean, mine is more, from what I can see, a little more alive. I mean with Chanel it clearly tries to humanize a brand. To let people know there is a story — this incredible woman who was an orphan and blah blah blah.

You don't think that your show serves a similar purpose?

It does that, but it's a very different style.

Why establish a presence in Beijing, then — as an individual, a character and artistic muse, as well as the head of a label?

It's China, you know, I'm fascinated by China. And I sell in China and clearly I'm interested in people knowing about me and my work in China.

 

(责任编辑:张天宇)

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