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长乐游神(Divine Parade in Changle)

2022-06-17 00:00

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万毅/摄影

  这是一组纪实性摄影作品,它生动鲜活地展现了中国东南沿海福建长乐,一种地方性民俗“游神”活动的完整场景。所谓“游神”,就是人们用敞篷大轿抬着当地宫庙里所供奉的神祗塑像,和顶着各村单独供奉的主神及主神部属的“扎骨”神像,结成队伍走街串巷巡游村境。锣鼓、鞭炮声喧天,百姓夹道观看、设坛祭拜迎接,场面壮观、气氛浓烈。组织游神活动常以村为单位,有时也数村联合,每年农历正月初四日之后开始,直至正月二十六日达到正月间历次出游的高潮。游神队伍秩序井然,形成开道团队、神子团队、将军团队、主神团队和信徒团队序列,其中各团队里还包含号队、高跷队、锣钹队、唱戏队等。用大轿抬着的神祗如华光大帝、白马王、临水陈太后,由真人顶着“扎骨”像的主神和部属如各大将军、孩儿弟、七爷、八爷等,在团队序列里大小神次序分明,各神装扮各异,形象独特生动,就连走路的步伐也不同,以显示不同神职、等级及性格。这是延续千年历史的传统民俗文化活动,具有较浓厚的道教色彩,神明出游巡境、沿门逐疫,以祈求风调雨顺、合境平安;而鼓乐喧天、人神同乐,在当下现实起到了融合宗族情感、和谐邻里关系,强化本土凝聚力与提高自信力的作用;从民俗文化深远历史境遇里,则依稀能够体味到“天地人神”共存的一缕巫术时代的遗风,享有天地神之庇荫,保有人与自然原初的密切关联。

  长乐历史悠久,古风淳朴,枕山靠海的特殊地理因素让生存在这块土地上的人民对游神活动情有独钟。在过去,是因为贫瘠与贫穷,改革开放之后则是因为改变与富裕,一年一度为安居乐业将游神活动进行到底。但近三年由于防疫需要而停歇。显然,这组纪实性摄影作品的推出,仿佛是对长乐延续千年不断的游神活动的接力,它具有了多重的现实意义。

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“英烈王”出游前整装“King of Heroes” is packed up before his travel.

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年轻人为争得荣耀争先恐后抬“英列王”Young people rush to carry “King of Heroes” for their glory.

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一年一度的游神活动开始了The annual divine parade begins.

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“张大世子”走在将军神队伍前列“Zhang Dashizi” walks in front of the general god team.

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行进中的将军满面春风The marching general is smiling.

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虔诚祈盼游神队伍到来Looking forward to the arrival of the procession.

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“驾前马奴”来回奔跑,活跃游神气氛

“Carriage horse” running back and forth to enliven atmosphere.

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“何”“施”“刘”三大将军为“英烈王”保驾护航Three generals, “He”, “Shi”, and “Liu”, escorting “King of Heroes”.

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“二郎显圣真君”神气十足“Erlang the holy true gentleman” is full of air.

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“英烈王”座下大神“血猴大将”“Blood monkey general” under the great “King of Heroes”.

  Divine Parade in ChangleYi Wan / Photography

  This is a group of documentary art photography works, which vividly shows the complete scene of a local folk custom “divine parade” activity in Changle, Fujian, on the southeast coast of China.

  In the so-called “divine parade”, people use open sedan chairs to carry the god effigies worshiped in the local temples and the statues of gods from individual villages, forming a team to parade throughout the villages. Gongs and drums sound loud, accompanied by firecrackers. People line the road watching and set up an altar to worship, creating a spectacular atmosphere. This activity is often organized by a village or sometimes by a number of villages every year from the fourth until the 26th day of the first lunar month to reach the climax.

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游神队伍穿越十里阡陌Divine parade traversing miles of fields.

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行进在田间小路的游神队伍The procession wandering on a field path.

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诸将军列队入村The generals filing into the village.

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“三田都元帅”“薛大将”穿过街旁祭台“Marshal Santiandu” and “General Xue” passing a street altar.

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“保长”接受祭拜“Baochang” accepting worship.

  The wandering team is in good order, forming the sequence of an opening team, a sons of gods team, a generals team, a main gods team and a believers team, with each team also including a sign team, a stilt team, a gongs and cymbals team, and a drama team. Big sedans are used to carry such gods as the Huaguang emperor, the white horse king, and the water queen mother Chen, while people hold statues of main and subordinate gods such as the general god, children, seventh and eighth masters. These gods of varying status, appearing in good order in the team sequence, are dressed up in different styles. They have distinct images. Even the pace of walking is different to match their different ministries, levels and characters. This is a millennium-old traditional folk culture activity, with a strong Taoist flavor. The gods travel around and from door to door to dispel sickness and to pray for good weather and peace. Gods and men share the music and joy, thus enhancing clan affections, harmonizing neighborhood relations, strengthening local cohesion, and improving self-confidence.

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将军迈着七星步欢快地进入设有祭台的村口The general walking happily into a village with an altar at its entrance.

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炮阵轰鸣,浓雾冲天Guns roaring and foggy smoke rising.

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“驾前马奴”“英烈王大世子”载行载舞“Carriage horse” and “King of Heroes Dashizi” dancing all the way.

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“英烈王”深入逼仄小巷“King of Heroes” going deep into narrow alleys.

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“英烈王”巡境沿门逐户“King of Heroes” Patrolling from door to door.

  By tracing the profound historical background of this folk culture, we can vaguely appreciate the legacy of the witchcraft era when “heaven and earth, man and god” coexisted, enjoy the blessing of mother nature, and keep the close connection between man and nature.

  Changle has a long history and a simple ancient style. Its special geographical factors of the mountains and the sea give people living on this land a special liking for divine parade activities. In the past, it was because of poverty. After the reform and opening up, because of change and prosperity, the annual divine parade activities are kept alive to ensure a life in peace and contentment. But in the past three years, due to the need of epidemic prevention, the activities have been stopped. Obviously, the launch of this group of documentary art and photography works serves as a kind of relay of this age-old parade in Changle with a practical significance in multiple dimensions.

May 18, 2022

English translation: Song Dongsheng

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“武判官”“文判官”行走在祭台旁“Military judges” and “civil judges” walking beside an altar.

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“王元帅”跨步驱邪“Marshal Wang” exorcises evil spirits.

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“文武状元”穿过沿路祭坛“Civil and military No. 1 scholars” passing an altar along the road.

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大神“火大将”炮阵前伫立待行The great god “fire general” standing in front of the gun array.

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玉封齐天府“驾前柳将军”Yufeng Qitianfu “Carriage General Liu”.

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“小孩弟”翘首盼望游神队伍“Little Brother” eagerly waiting for the parade.

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小将军焦急地等待大部队到来The little general waiting anxiously for the big army to arrive.

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小朋友穿上自家道具参与游神活动Children put on their own props to participate in the parade.

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将军迈开七星步穿过沿街祭台The general striding past a street altar.

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互动中争先恐后为“保长”点烟Scrambling to light up “Baochang”‘s cigarette.

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为行程中的“八爷”“七爷”“师爷”振冠Adjusting crowns for “Eighth Master”, “Seventh Master”, and “Adviser” on the go.

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“黑面大将军”率先穿过庭院祭台“Black face general” taking the lead through a courtyard altar.

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“驾前马奴”等元帅等待新行程“Carriage horse” and other marshals waiting for a new trip.

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各路将军行程中歇息The generals resting during their journey.

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“邓将军”与禇将军停留在供桌前“General Deng” and General Chu staying at an altar.

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“杨都总政”巡察摆满猪羊祭品的供坛“Yang Du General Administrator” inspecting an altar filled with pig and sheep offerings.

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“三眼华光大帝”等元帅行进中接受祭拜“Three-eyed Huaguang the Great” and other marshals accepting worship on the march.

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驱邪祈福的游神队伍走出厅堂The parade walking out of a hall.

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“济公”带领高跷队伍在行进中表演“Ji Gong” leading a stilt team to perform on the march.

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游神队伍中的兵丁Soldiers in the parade.

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“英烈王”座下大神“白兔大将”威严出行“White Rabbit General” under “King of Heroes” marching majestically.

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将军“扬鞭催马”The general “whipping the horse”.

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俩小神在行进中交谈Two little gods talking on the march.

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“师爷”穿行在人群与祭台之间The “Adviser” walking between the crowd and the altar.

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“高将军”与“乌鸦大将”行进中比舞“General Gao” and “General Crow” in a dancing contest on the march.

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英豪神气的“哪吒三太子”Heroic air of “Third Prince Nezha”.

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烟雾弥漫中跪拜“英烈王”的到来Kneeling in smoke and worshiping “King of Heroes”.

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“三田都元帅”神祠堂门口表演七星步“Marshal Santiandu” performing seven star steps at the gate of an ancestral temple.

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游神队伍进入祠堂接受祭拜The parade entering an ancestral temple to receive worship.

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神灵驾到的瞬间The moment when the spirit arrives.

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祭坛前跪拜众神灵到来Kneeling down to the gods in front of an altar.

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玉封齐天府“大都统”携各大将军夜巡Yufeng Qitianfu “Dadutong” on night patrol with major generals.

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“八爷”表演“抢宴”“Eighth Master” performing “grabbing the banquet”.

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“七爷”与“孩弟”在供桌前欢快过宴“Seventh Master” and “Little Brother” banqueting at the altar.

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夜幕下游行的“顺天神母”“Shuntian Mother of God” marching in the night.

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炮仗轰天迎“顺天神母”Loud firecrackers to meet “Shuntian Mother of God”.

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“顺天神母”出游回归“Shuntian Mother of God” returning after parade.

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抬着神灵冲入祠堂,游神活动推向高潮Carrying the gods and rushing into the ancestral hall, the parade reaching climax.

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祠堂内众村民齐跪祭拜归位的神灵The villagers in the ancestral temple kneel together to worship the returning gods.

神像介绍

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万毅  2015年在洛阳石窟采风

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  文章转自:美国摄影学会(中国)

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